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SMD - Spire Model Distribution LTD Chesterfield , Derbyshire , England, United Kingdom support@s-m-d.co.uk |
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Tips Fuel The most important factor with a high performance engine is using a suitable high quality fuel. Many people cut corners on fuel or just throw anything in from their local dealer. Don't do it, always buy good quality named branded fuel. We recommend that you use a fuel with 25% - 30% Nitro content and oil content of 11% + All of our testing was done exclusively on Byron originals 25% (Byron Race #2500)and we cannot recommend this fuel enough. We will have base settings on this site for all GO engine's and they will all have been achieved using Byron fuel. Visit Byron Air filter's When using a high performance race engine such as a GO engine, air filters are critical to the performance and longevity of the engine. Always use new filters, never use "cleaned" or "washed" filters (why put so much effort keeping the dirt on the outside of the filter to spread it into the inside when washing??). New filters are very cheap and easier on the wallet than a replacement engine... Always use a high quality air filter oil made especially for the job, Associated, Tornado, Kyosho, Racer's choice, Mugen all make quality air filter oil. Wet air filter's One thing often overlooked in the UK is the potential threat from standing water. Mud is not such a big problem, but running water is. For a few pounds you can invest in a wet weather air filter which stops the ingress of water into the engine. Water does not compress, so the usual result is a cracked crank case or a bent/broken con rod. Its an expensive mistake for a few pounds. K factory make a nice wet weather air box so be prepared and get one ready built and in your pit box. Exhaust systems During our testing of GO engine's we tried several exhausts. On the 21 size race engine's we found that the Hong Nor PI-809 provided ample low end power with a high revving top end. Its BRCA, EFRA and IFMAR legal to be used at sanctioned events and at £54.95 excellent value. If the engine is being used for non sanctioned events the PI-802 (PI-805 if hard coated) provides slightly more power. The GO 28 engine worked well on the PI-810 big bore pipe set, had a great top end and a nice rasp. We also tried the PI-802 (Pi-805 if hard coated) and this provided good bottom end power with a quieter noise and slightly less top end power. Running in procedure Unscrew the top end mixture needle (on top of the carb, next to the air inlet) 1 - 2 turns. Start the engine and let it idle for 2 tanks making sure that it is not getting hot. This will take an hour or so. Next step is boring and time consuming but will give you the best life and overall engine performance. Do not be tempted to rush this ! Over revving a tight engine reduces life dramatically and puts the con rod under tremendous strain. Run the car with the body off (for maximum cooling) with the top end needle as rich as possible with the engine still running, the car should be very slow at full throttle and blowing LOTS and LOTS of smoke out, spluttering is normal. Do this for around 10 tanks, gradually leaning the top end off over the ten tanks, avoid revving the engine high for long periods and don’t drive the car on a big open space's with lots of full throttle. Slowly in figure of 8’s over a space of around 10-12 metre's is ideal. After around ten tanks the engine will be nearly run in. The first time you race/use it at the track try and keep long periods of high rpm to a minimum (backing off on the straight if necessary)and keep the mixture on the rich side. (anti clockwise) As the day goes on you will feel and hear that the engine is more willing to rev and is revving higher on the track, at this point you can aim for the optimum needle setting. Plug's On the 21 7 port engine we found that the Nova Rossi / RB concepts number 6 plug worked very well giving a good all round performance and durability. Clutch On the 21 7 port engine a combination of 1 x #371 alloy clutch shoe and 2 x #174b clutch shoes all fitted with #174c-gold 1.1mm clutch springs work very well. The 21 7 port is also a torquey motor and suits a 14t clutch bell on most buggies, though this depends on the conditions and track layout. If in doubt start with a 13t as this keeps the engine cooler. On a CRT truggy the 21 7 port should initially be fitted with a 13t bell as this will suit most conditions. Base settings Base settings can be used as a guide to where about's you should have your engine needles set. These settings should be used as a guide only. Top end The top end needle is positioned on top of the carburetor and next to the air intake. To copy a top end setting screw the needle all the way in (clockwise)until the needle stops DO THIS GENTLY AND DO NOT FORCE then unscrew by the amount of turns (anti clockwise). Bottom end The bottom end needle is positioned in the end of the moving part of the carburettor. When screwing the bottom end needle all the way in you must be very careful. The carb needs to be held firmly shut with your finger and thumb or as you tun the needle in ( GENTLEY) it will simply push the carb open. Once again turn the needle out (anti clockwise) the amount of turns for the base setting. |
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